Icons of Influence: Connecting Celebrity, Pop Art, and Legacy

Charlotte Stewart, MD at MyArtBroker, moderated and introduced the panel discussion by sharing how the collaboration came about through shared passions and the recurring themes seen in artists and their intersections with fashion and photography. She explained that the event aims to bridge modern themes of influence and social media with art historical and cultural threads in prints, photography, and fashion.

Featuring experts Jess Bromovsky, Head of American Pop at MyArtBroker, author and lecturer Terry Newman, and Carrie Kania, Publishing Director at Iconic Images, the panel addressed the nuanced concepts of “icon” and “celebrity”. These terms Charlotte noted are often overused and misunderstood, while asking the panelists for their insights into their evolution and cultural perceptions.

Carrie began the discussion by highlighting the origins of the word “celebrity,” linking it to the act of celebrating. She distinguished between “celebrity” and “fame,” explaining that celebrity arises from being celebrated for achievements in areas like art, music, or acting, whereas fame is broader and not always tied to accomplishment. She emphasised that celebrity is not a modern phenomenon and that its definition is nuanced - suggesting even the inventor of fire could be seen as an early celebrity in that scientific arena. What has evolved, she noted, is how we perceive and interact with celebrities in today’s ”24/7 digital age“, where constant access amplifies their presence and allure.

Terry referenced her recent Marilyn Monroe publication to illustrate how celebrity has evolved over time. In Marilyn's era, celebrity was rooted in “scarcity and exclusivity,” shaped by the limited reach of radio and television, which elevated stars to iconic status. In contrast, today’s multimedia landscape often defines celebrity through visibility rather than accomplishment. She remarked, “Now, in our multimedia age, visibility can make anyone a celebrity. It’s a completely different world." Modern celebrities can rise quickly through viral moments but often fade just as rapidly, a stark contrast to the lasting icons of the past.

As an expert on Andy Warhol, one of the most iconic artistic figures of the past, Jess builds on Carrie and Terry’s insights, emphasising that a celebrity is someone who captures the public’s imagination and becomes a cultural touchstone. She notes a key shift over time, explaining that while celebrity status in the 20th century was far more exclusive, today’s platforms like Instagram and social media have broadened the definition, enabling the rise of self-promoting figures and “redefining what it means to be iconic.”

Charlotte introduced the idea that iconic celebrity identities, Marilyn being one example, are often shaped by visual mediums such as photography. She noted that when people think of Marilyn, specific images - often tied to iconic dresses or fashion - immediately come to mind, highlighting the role of photographers in defining her legacy. She then invited the panel to explore how their respective mediums have contributed to the creation of celebrity moments, emphasising how different art forms shape cultural icons over time.

Carrie emphasised how Marilyn's beauty and extensive photographic documentation elevated her from celebrity to icon status. From wartime magazine covers to Hollywood portraits, Marilyn was captured by numerous renowned photographers, creating universally recognisable visuals. Carrie noted that Marilyn’s enduring legacy lies primarily in her photographic iconography. Unlike contemporaries such as Jennifer Jones or Rosalind Russell, Marilyn’s image has transcended her body of work, as Carrie observed, “I don’t know if a lot of people know Marilyn's films as much as they know her image,” underscoring the profound role photography played in defining her enduring cultural impact.

Expanding on how Marilyn’s fashion choices and aura of glamour elevated her celebrity through photography, Terry highlighted her admiration for Jean Harlow, who inspired her as an orphan coming of age during the Depression era. Marilyn eventually mirrored Harlow’s iconography while simultaneously crafting her own distinct image, despite the constraints of the studio system. This self-created persona remains influential today, much like Harlow’s did for Marilyn herself. Terry emphasised the poignant role of cultural icons as touchstones and noted Warhol’s fascination with Marilyn’s multifaceted celebrity, highlighting the balance between her public persona and private identity.

Charlotte expanded the discussion by examining Marilyn's diverse photographic portrayals, emphasising how these images have grown in popularity over time, solidifying her iconic status in history. She linked Marilyn’s various depictions to Gene Kornman’s intimate photograph, which Warhol famously used for his Marilyn screenprints. By bridging artistic mediums - photography and Pop Art - Warhol redefined the concept of “celebrity,” transforming a single repeated image in various colourways into a powerful cultural phenomenon.

Jess highlighted how Pop Art in the 1960s marked a pivotal shift by placing celebrity at its core, contrasting the introspective focus of the previously dominant Abstract Expressionism with a bold, outward-facing approach. She observed that artists like Warhol were “obsessed” with reimagining celebrity imagery, enlarging, simplifying, and using bold colours to transform figures into instantly recognisable icons. “You might recognise a photograph of her, but you would also immediately recognise Warhol’s print,” she explained. This innovative approach not only redefined Contemporary art but also left a lasting cultural legacy, demonstrating the power of combining simplicity with striking visuals to immortalise celebrity figures.

Charlotte and Jess discussed other artists in the Pop Art movement who shared Warhol’s focus on celebrity and iconography. Jess drew parallels to Roy Lichtenstein and Keith Haring, noting their emphasis on repetitive imagery and mass media influence. Like Warhol, Lichtenstein transformed everyday media visuals by enlarging and simplifying them, creating bold, memorable works that deeply resonated with popular culture. While Haring's work emphasised accessible art over celebrity culture, he contributed to the broader Pop Art ethos by developing a visual language that resonated widely, turning everyday spaces and symbols into vibrant, universally meaningful imagery. This group of artists was interconnected, “bouncing off each other, but taking slightly different veins” in their creative interpretations.

Charlotte and Carrie discussed how mediums like photography, prints, and other art forms, now celebrated as fine art, were initially criticised and dismissed. Carrie highlighted Warhol’s early use of screenprinting as an example, noting parallels with photography, which began as a tool for documentation before evolving into a respected art form. This transformation was driven by 20th-century pioneers like Man Ray, who elevated photography in the 1920s and 1930s. Today, this shift is evident in high-profile auctions showcasing works by artists such as Richard Avedon and Diane Arbus, affirming that photography is now regarded with the same seriousness as traditional fine art.

Charlotte expanded the conversation to explore how the cult of celebrity, which started with controlled images of stars like Marilyn, has now shifted in the age of social media, where celebrity and fashion are intricately linked with branding. Terry highlighted the contrast in economies between Marilyn’s era and today, noting that early in her career, Marilyn, and celebrities, operated on a limited styling budget, managing with, what Terry described as, “a very frugal wardrobe.” As her celebrity grew, despite levels of studio control and constraints, Marilyn acted as her own stylist, maintaining significant influence over her image. Terry contrasted this with the modern hyper-commercialised world, where celebrities are not only marketing tools but also visionaries, actively shaping their personal brands – as seen in figures like Rihanna launching her own fashion house with LVMH.

The panelists further discussed the evolution of accessibility and influence in fashion, contrasting the 1950s with today. Carrie highlighted how, in Marilyn’s time, people often imitated styles seen on screen rather than owning the actual designer labels, as such items were inaccessible to the average person. Terry expanded on this, noting that movies and television then served as significant trendsetters, while today, fashion trends are supercharged by platforms and sponsorships. The current landscape sees celebrities endorsing brands or being paid to wear specific designs, a stark contrast to Marilyn's era, where personal style and authenticity defined her image.

Noting how brands and fashion trends thrive in the digital age, Charlotte steered the discussion toward social media's connection with iconic figures, particularly Warhol. Jess proposed that Warhol would have embraced social media, stating, “I think he would have loved it. I think he would have been fascinated by it.” She contextualised this by explaining that social media embodies what Warhol sought to represent, aligning with the collaborative spirit of his Factory. Warhol’s Factory, she noted, was a hub for artists, singers, and socialites, all gathered for one purpose: to be seen. Jess drew a parallel between the Factory's dynamic and Instagram’s global platform, emphasising how both serve as spaces for creative visibility and connection.

Charlotte further highlighted Warhol’s ability to “flip the camera on himself,” making the artist a celebrity in his own right, a shift from traditional roles where artists stayed behind the canvas. Jess used this to contextualise a comparison of Warhol’s creation of icons to historical depictions of royalty or religious figures, explaining that he modernised this practice by elevating celebrities (and himself) to a similar level of cultural importance. Together, they emphasised Warhol's visionary relevance to today's digital and celebrity-driven world.

Charlotte turned the conversation to the enduring power of imagery, initiating the discussion by asking why certain photographs become iconic, using figures like Marilyn and Kate Moss as examples. She suggested that the enduring impact of some images is often tied to the narrative surrounding the subject, especially posthumously. She highlighted how specific images capture a celebrity's “truth” in a way that resonates deeply with the public, making them timeless and culturally significant.

Carrie explained that an iconic photograph is a combination of subject, time, place, and the photographer's ability to create a defining image. She referenced Terry O'Neill's works, such as Fade Down Away by the Pool and Richard Bardell with the Cigar, as examples where the photograph not only represents the subject but also the photographer's vision. Carrie noted that iconic status often develops over time, as with Brigitte Bardot's rugged black-and-white headshot, which contrasts her usual glamorous image. She also discussed how photos like Greg Brennan's of Kate Moss are gradually becoming more-and-more recognised as iconic, illustrating how cultural resonance evolves.

This segwayed into the role of authenticity in creating lasting images, even if they deviate from the polished images typically associated with their subjects. Charlotte highlighted Warhol’s print collections, such as Electric Chair, Ladies and Gentlemen, or Endangered Species, noting how they now feel ahead of their time and are gaining increasing interest in the art market. She drew a parallel to figures like Bardot, whose more natural images have similarly gained significance over time.

Charlotte then posed a challenging question about artists who have “given birth to a celebrity” through a single iconic image, asking for examples of figures whose recognition was propelled by the artist’s work, even if they were not widely known beforehand.

Jess highlighted Warhol as a prime example, pointing out a notable shift in his choice of subjects. While he initially focused on well-known figures like Mick Jagger and other prominent rock or Hollywood stars, he later turned to more niche subjects, such as sports icons like Wayne Gretzky. Jess described this phase as “much more niche, much more American,” featuring athletes that some might have heard of but were not global household names.

What makes this shift significant, Jess noted, is that it didn’t matter who the subject was - Warhol’s distinctive style made the portraits iconic. Both Jess and Charlotte agreed, saying, “He put them on the map,” with Warhol’s recognisable aesthetic ensuring that everyone knew it was his work. Carrie also made an interesting observation, noting that sport, while tricky, often lacks the cultural gravitas found in other celebrity imagery, highlighting figures like Michael Jordan as exceptions.

As the discussion concluded, the panel explored how styles and visual presentation act as cultural touchstones. Terry noted that today’s hyper-vigilant scrutiny of celebrities has transformed how they present themselves. She emphasised the influence of fandoms, such as those surrounding Taylor Swift or Harry Styles, in shaping celebrity personas and trends, creating a continuous cycle of visibility and expectation. Reflecting on the contrast with past eras, Terry lamented the loss of spontaneity in celebrity imagery, comparing the tightly controlled images of today to the raw, behind-the-scenes moments captured of figures like Marilyn and Bardot or Warhol’s screenprint portraits.

However, Terry acknowledged moments of fashion spontaneity, citing Styles as a standout for breaking norms with his daring fashion choices: “Actually, he can wear whatever he likes - feather boas, anything he likes.” This, she observed, underscores the timeless appeal of authenticity and individuality in celebrity culture.

The discussion brought to the floor whether there is a modern-day equivalent to Marilyn as an “icon of our era”. Terry suggested that contemporary celebrities like Lana Del Rey, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian have each embodied aspects of Marilyn in their own unique ways, but concluded, “Maybe there can't be another one.” Charlotte and Jess noted Banksy's agreement, referencing his artwork that connects Marilyn to today's cultural icons in his interpretation of Kate Moss.

The discussion shifted to the idea of celebrities being “canceled” or facing backlash as a result of photographs, and whether controversial subjects in portraits, such as those by Warhol, influenced their public image. Carrie highlighted Marilyn’s support for Ella Fitzgerlad in the 1950s, which provoked hate mail due to the racial prejudices, an issue that is still; widely relevant today. She also referenced figures like Sammy Davis Jr., Frank Sinatra, Dennis Hopper, Marlon Brando, and Paul Newman, who may not have necessarily been “cancelled” but did face a certain level of backlash for their support and involvement in the civil rights movement.

To further contextualise this “cancel concept,” Marilyn’s Seven Year Itch scene was discussed, often seen as a moment of tension in her marriage to Joe DiMaggio. This iconic image, celebrated as a symbol of her sexuality and femininity, was famously projected onto massive buildings in Times Square, drawing attention to the double standards and societal pressures women face in the public eye. Marilyn’s autonomy over her image was often overshadowed by the societal expectations of those around her, underscoring how women’s bodies are frequently politicised and controlled, even within the context of their own work and artistry.

Jess brought Warhol into perspective with controversial images, explaining that Warhol's approach to portraying controversial figures, Mao Zedong being one example, both critiqued and elevated their celebrity. Warhol simplified his subjects and used his signature bright colours without taking a clear stance, leaving interpretations open to the audience. This neutrality allowed his work to provoke reactions, treating controversial figures with the same artistic treatment as cultural icons like Marilyn Monroe or Mick Jagger, fostering engagement and conversation.

Charlotte wrapped up the panel by stating, ”Whether it’s Warhol’s silkscreens, a candid photo, or a viral Instagram post, art and celebrity are inextricably linked. Understanding this connection allows us to appreciate not just the images but the stories they tell and the legacies they create."

The discussion as a whole highlighted the enduring fascination with celebrity in art, from Marilyn Monroe to contemporary icons, offering a thoughtful perspective on how art continues to shape and reflect cultural narratives.